Since we were in town for the day, we decided to get a few things done. I noticed a man carrying propane tanks to his boat, so I asked him if we could fill up nearby. He not only told me where, but also offered to take me up the hill in his car. That way I'd only be walking downhill on the return to the marina. He and his wife were driving to the town of Gaspe' for a few purchases and offered to get us anything we might need. The only thing I could think of was that Kris might want a ride to Gaspe' for better bus service. As we all talked, we discovered that the cruising couple wanted to leave their car in Gaspe' but their boat was in Riviere au Renard. It all worked out quite nicely. When they returned from their shopping trip, Kris would borrow their car for a little sight-seeing and leave their car at the marina in Gaspe'. He would have a better bus schedule from there and they would find their car at the marina when they returned on their boat to Gaspe'.
That evening, after Kris left, I caught up on my email and also enjoyed a local trio playing free music at the marina office. My new friends, who loaned their car to Kris, were also there along with most of the other cruisers in the small marina. The forecast for the next day was light winds, but clear and sunny.
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| Whale at Cap des Rosiers |
It proved to be the perfect day to take photos and it was a good thing since there were whales, birds, islands, rock formations, cliffs, lighthouses and other boats to take pictures of!
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| Cap des Rosiers Lighthouse |
Since I was sailing this leg alone, my track gets a little screwy at times and I blame it on the picture taking. At first Kelly and I passed by Cap des Rosiers and the lighthouse there. We also saw numerous whales and birds as we motored south in the calm, blue water of the morning. Before midday we were passing the impressive cliffs and rocks forming Cap Gaspe' and the lighthouse posed above these magnificent dropoffs.
The wind began to pick up so I set sail but the breeze proved to be from the southeast and since I was headed due south, it was too close for us to point into it. After sailing west into Gaspe' Bay, I furled the genoa and motor sailed under the mainsail alone. I was surprised just how large Perce Rock proved to be. It was easily visible from over 5 miles away and is the most dramatic formation of a long line of impressive cliffs jutting into the sea.
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| Cap Gaspe' |
Just across the strait from Perce Rock is Ile Bonaventure, site of the largest single bird colony in North America. I literally sailed through thousands of birds, flying, diving and swimming around me and I didn't even sail near the colony which was on the far side of the island.
As I sailed through this area of significant natural beauty and majesty, I was blessed to see a few more whales! This leg proved to be a very memorable step in our journey!
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| Perce Rock |
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| Perce Rock |
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| L'Anse a'Beaufils |
Since my next leg was a 24 hour, 123 mile solo sailing adventure, I merely needed to depart in daylight, so I'd arrive in daylight. I saw my new American friends off and spoke with the small steel boat owner across the pier from me. He gutted his steel boat to a bare hull when he bought it, rebuilt the interior completely, including insulation, and designed and installed a twin masted schooner rig with junk sails. No not bad sails! Sails like the Chinese used in the sailing junks! :-)
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| Twin masted schooner rig with junk sails off Ile Bonaventure |
Although the forecast was not pretty, I set sail anyway, as the winds were currently light and forecasted to turn northerly, which was important given my sailing direction was still due south.
Within an hour the rain started and stayed with me for the next nine and half hours. Since the wind was light and the rain varied from misty to steady, it was easy to motor, if a bit damp. With Kelly's dodger and bimini, I stayed pretty dry and the boat got a good thorough cleaning with nature's showers.
Shortly after dark the last rain clouds swept away and finally I could see the sky, including a gibbous moon and the glorious star-lit heavens. The breeze filled from the northwest to about 15 knots, so we were able to sail on a beam reach for a few hours before the late night hours took their toll. I needed some rest and there were no other boats to be seen so I rigged Kelly to hove to and fell into my bunk for a brief nap. An hour or so later I awoke refreshed and resumed our sail, although now the winds had increased and the waves were building. I had not taken any seasickness medication so I was somewhat concerned as the waves were occasionally 6 feet high. But I needn't have worried. Apparently I have gotten my sea legs, as I never got seasick despite the bouncy and rocking conditions. I went below several times to change clothes, get some food and water, etc., and handled it all without any ill effect. Those who know my sailing habits know that I was never able to do that in the past.
After a couple hours of this rollicking sail, I was feeling very drowsy, so we hove to again for another nap. When I awoke, the day was fully bright, even though it was only 4am. I still had another 7 hours of sailing, so I munched some food in the cockpit while we continued the sail in 20 knots of breeze and 4 to 6 feet waves. After a few hours of boisterous sailing, I guess I was eager for the long day to wrap up and my empty bunk was calling to me, so I fired up the motor so we could motor sail the last several miles. The motor increased our speed from 5 knots to almost 7 knots which got us into port over an hour sooner.
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| Richibucto, New Brunswick |
I am now tied up in the small marina in Richibucto, New Brunswick. After getting settled, showered, and a quick lunch, I fell into my bunk for an afternoon nap. By dinner time I awoke and got busy washing the boat to remove the heavy salt from the spray during the morning sail. Unfortunately, I left a port open and got my bunk and sleeping bag wet, so I spent the evening in the local laundromat drying things out.
July 11's weather was forecasted to be rainy with winds 20 – 30 knots, so I decided to stay in port. I got a few things done, including this update to my online log. Both Port and Starboard diesel tanks needed refilling, so I emptied all 3 jerry cans into them. A friendly member of the marina took me in his car to refill the 3 jerry cans, so I am topped off for fuel and ready for my next leg.
Mia, my wife, has flown to the maritimes and we are planning to meet in Summerside, Prince Edward Island tomorrow night, assuming I depart tomorrow. Although it is expected to be rainy, the winds will be southwesterly, in my favor, so I think I'll go anyway.
Kelly IV and I have now traveled over 1286 nautical miles from Erie, PA.
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